I was lucky enough to go on a research trip to Naples last December. It was my first real research trip, so that made it pretty exciting. However, it wasn’t the most serious trip in the world – I went with my boyfriend, and we had plenty of time to see the other, non-ancient, sights of Naples. (There are a lot of churches.)
I have to recommend Naples in the middle of winter. It is definitely mental. My boyfriend even got hit by a car that was turning around in the middle of a busy street as we tried to nip across. But it’s great anyway. We had Pompeii almost to ourselves, and there was no one else at all at Herculaneum. You can eat massive, amazing pizzas for 3 euros a go. You can practice dodgy Italian, because there’s not that many people around who speak English to jump in and “help” you. I was definitely glad I was there with someone else, and I’m not sure I would have been happy there if I’d been a woman alone, but as it was it was cheap, cheerful and definitely an experience. Might even do it again soon.
I didn’t need to do much in-depth research while I was there – the main purpose of going was to take some photos to use in my thesis. Which, at the time, was a bit tricky, because I didn’t know quite what was going to be in my thesis at that point. I ended up taking photographs of all kinds of ridiculous things, even arguing with one of the guards at Pompeii (in a terrible Italian/English hybrid) that I really needed to go to a random little corner of the town, even though it was an hour until closing time, no one was around and he wanted to shut up shop. Anyway, here are some of the results.
This is an Oscan inscription from around 80 BC – unfortunately it’s behind perspex, so you can’t really see it here, but it’s very cool. It’s painted in red, and it tells the population where to go in the event of an emergency. I was so excited when I found this, totally by chance, just a few seconds from the forum.
This is the so-called “Samnite Palaestra”. Probably not a palaestra (exercise ground) at all, it’s just not big enough, and there’s nothing really to identify it as one. But still cool as a pre-Roman feature of the town.
The guards thought I was mental when I was searching for this on the wall of the brothel, while all the normal tourists looked at the pornographic paintings. Ten points if you can find the Oscan word “MARGAS” (probably a man’s name). Oscan reads right to left, so it’s pretty obvious when you manage to find an inscription.
Here’s a Latin graffito, also from the brothel.
As you can see, I’m really into all these Oscan inscriptions! But any more will make the computer explode, so I’ll leave it there for now.










